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Central Italy
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Rome and Florence, wonderful
cities of magnificent art, architecture and history, are the only places in
Central Italy most tourists visit. But
there are scores of small to medium size “art cities” throughout the area
that boast their own collection of priceless treasures that can be enjoyed in a
more private and relaxed fashion. Many
famous painters decorated the churches and small country chapels in the
countryside: Giotto, Il Perugino, Pinturicchio, Fra Filippo Lippi, Signorelli,
Tintorreto, Andrea della Robbia, to name just a few. Their works can be seen in the medieval walled towns,
strategically built high on the tops of hills to protect the powerful noble
ruling families from their enemies. Within
these towns the fortified castles and church spires dominate, but remnants of
other civilizations can be seen: for example, Lucca, enclosed by not one but
three sets of walls, has architecture ranging from Roman to medieval to 16th
century, with a little Baroque, neoclassical and Art Deco mixed in! In Tuscany, Montepulciano, San Gimignano, Siena and Pienza are treasures. In Umbria, one of Italy’s best preserved and largest medieval hill
towns is Perugia, but Gubbio, Spello and Spoleto are fascinating towns to
explore. Though often very crowded,
Assisi is worthy of a visit, as is the charming town of Todi.
The Etruscans, who arrived in
Italy several centuries before Rome was built, settled in parts of modern
Tuscany, Umbria and Lazio. All that
is known of this highly refined civilization comes from the excavation of its
burial grounds, virtual cities of underground chambers with streets, houses and
dome-shaped tombs painted with frescoes depicting everyday life: hunters,
dancers, family scenes, dolphins, birds. Cerveteri and Tarquinia in Lazio are
the major sites, but traces of the civilization are quite common: in Perugia,
one entry to the city is through an Etruscan arch, and in Orvieto are
beautifully painted tombs. Two of
JDB’s hotels offer a close look: underneath La Posta Vecchia are Etruscan
ruins that guests can visit, and the Etruscan caves under La Tana Dell
‘Istrice are used to age their wines.
Travel in the countryside offers
special pleasures: buy some of
Italy’s best olive oil in Spello, truffles in Gubbio, the famous pecorino
cheese in Pienza. Some of the
finest wines are produced in the area: the whites of Orvieto and Frascati;
Montefalco’s award winning Sagrantino; the Vino Nobile of Montepulciano; and
of course the wines of the Chianti area: Radda in Chianti, Castellina in
Chianti, Greve in Chianti, Giaole in Chianti. Visits can be arranged to many of the vineyards, and in Torgiano near
Perugia there is a fascinating wine museum. Spoleto has interesting antique
shops, and many towns are known for their unique ceramics: Radda in Chianti in
Tuscany, Deruta and Gubbio in Umbria. Tuscan ceramics tend to be bright,
intricate designs in blues, while those in Umbria are more rustic, typically
with a rooster in the center. In
Pietrasanta near the Tuscan coast, you can stroll through the alleys of this
medieval town and find tiny artist studios where some of the world’s finest
sculpture is being created. The artist Botero lives in Pietrasanta part of the
year, and as a gift to the town painted frescoes depicting heaven and hell in
the local church. Those interested in art should also visit the Florence
showroom of “Il Ritratto,” a group of international painters living and
working in Tuscany. Festivals,
fairs and concerts are held throughout the year: many small towns have antique
fairs, Spello has an olive oil festival in February, Gubbio, a truffle festival
in November and in Orvieto in May and June, a wine show. Carnevale takes place in Viareggio the three weekends before Lent, and in
August Puccini’s music is celebrated in an open air theatre in nearby Torre
Del Lago. In Montepulciano in July and August there are candlelight midnight
concerts, the famous Umbrian Jazz Festival takes place in Perugia in July, and
from April to June in Lucca is the Sacred Music Festival. Two of Italy’s most important festivals of the performing arts (opera,
concerts, ballet, drama, art) are the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino in Florence
from May to June and the Festival of the Two Worlds in Spoleto in June and July.
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